Irrespective of whether or not you dispatch your regulator out consistently for servicing, properly keeping it up immediately after every dive reduces down on corrosion / contamination. Farrar Dave of Gypsy Divers of Raleigh, NC demonstrates that servicing starts before you install your initial stage on a tank. He advises cracking the cylinder valve a little bit to blow any salt water, grime, or any other matter out from the cylinder valve orifice so impurities won’t be compelled into the first stage filter of your regulator whenever you pressurize the system. This could be particularly beneficial on a dive boat where tank valves are not coated by a dry dust cap.
More recommendations: As soon as the regulator yoke is in position, break the tank valve gently, then stop and enable the regulator to slowly pressurize. As soon as your gauge reveals the system is pressurized, open up the valve all the way. Gradual pressurizing enables your regulator valves to shut carefully rather than slamming. This prevents unnecessary pneumatic shock to regulator components.
When acquiring your first phase off a tank right after a dive, don’t attempt to clean up the filter with a blast of air through your tank valve. In normal wet boat-deck situations, this simply blows atomized water straight into the first stage filter. While the salt water evaporates, the left-over sea salt forms crystal patterns which may cause valves to seat inappropriately, leading to problems such as free-flow. A much better technique is to carefully blow dry the dust cover or dry it using a towel and replace it on the first phase right away.
Almost all industry specialists endorse soaking the whole regulator in warm freshwater overnight or longer with the “doors” sealed (retain the dust cap in place and don’t push the purge button). Occasionally check the first stage filter, which should often be a dull pewter color. Red, green, or chalky build up are warnings of assorted types of corrosion and signify that serious servicing is required.
